Page 12 - 2025年11月號

ΤਓՉྼٙ
合，再製成那些閃閃發光的小
已經廣受歡迎的刈包 ―― 一
FOOD STALLS pingpong-sized spheres, known as di gua the Wei-Chuan Cooking Books for the
圓球時，總會吸引人們大排
種塞滿滷五花肉的對折蒸包。
techniques to a perfect stir-fry. My wife,
qiu, were unexpectedly hollow and lightly
sweet, with a hint of the sweet potato’s
ց̹ߕ࠮
Deann, brought back our home’s copies
長龍。
雖然每個人都警告我別碰臭豆
FAMOUS FOR characteristic earthiness. I laughed a of Chinese Cuisine and Chinese Snacks
當我好不容易從熱情洋
腐，但我卻一試傾心 ―― 或
from her year teaching English in Taiwan
little as I popped another and then an-
back in the 1970s.
other into my mouth.
溢的人群中抽身而出，我發現
許更準確地說，我是瞬間為之
QUALITY for the quality of its food stalls. Head of sauce the books were likely calling for
What I didn’t know is that the soy
The Ningxia Night Market is famous
我才踏入寧夏夜市沒幾步，就
了一種只能用「純然喜悅」來
傾倒。我堅信，任何喜歡味道
被地瓜球攫住目光。當攤販 the list, at least in my opinion, is Yuan has a different taste than others. Better.
濃烈的藍紋起司，如洛克福起
形容的美味。這些名為地瓜球
Huan Pien Oyster Omelet. I could watch
The artisan local soy sauce is made from
從熱油中撈出一盤地瓜球，將 the ballet of red-aproned cooks working black — not the typical yellow — soy-
的乒乓球大小圓球，出乎意料
司 (Roquefort) 的人，都會喜歡
I was a few steps into the Ningxia Night the circular griddles for hours. The briny beans that ferment for months. Tasting
它們倒入一個兒童澡盆大小的
地是中空的，帶有淡淡的甜
這種經由複雜發酵滷水醃製而
Market when the sweet potato balls sweetness of the oysters, the chewy- Taiwanese soy sauce for the first time is
caught my eye. The golden and purple tender texture of the batter, the richness like that first taste of Pappy Van Winkle’s
不鏽鋼鍋中時，這些金黃與紫
味，並隱含著地瓜獨特的泥土
成、口感軟中帶硬的豆腐。
spheres glistened as the cook pulled a of the egg, the lightness of the greens 23-year-old bourbon when you’ve only
色相間的小球油亮澄澄閃閃發
芬芳。我邊笑邊將地瓜球一個
tray from the hot oil and hoisted them — it was obvious why locals line up for been used to Jim Beam 4-year. Rich and
into a stainless steel bowl the size of a hours to tuck into one of these beauties. round, complex and satisfying.
光。當時的難題是，我被洶湧
接一個地塞進嘴裡。
迪化街
kid’s bathtub. The problem was I couldn’t The next hour was a blur of fried taro I discovered my favorite artisan soy
的人潮推擠向前，無法抽身向
figure out how to extract myself from balls with preserved egg yolk and pork sauce in, of all places, a meat-product
出於純粹的熱愛，我成年後一
寧夏夜市以其美食攤位
the human river that bore me along so I floss, perfect mochi with pulverized store along Dihua Street. I loved wander-
攤販點購一袋直覺告訴我將會
直在練習烹飪亞洲菜餚，並依
的高品質而聞名遐邇。在我看
could order a bagful of what my gut told toasted peanuts and sesame for dipping, ing the area’s lively shops, their goods
me I would likely never forget. and those pork belly-filled, fold-over spilling out onto the sidewalks. Piles of
賴像 Wei-Chuan Cooking Books
難以忘懷的美味。
來，其中首屈一指的便是「圓
Now, sweet potatoes might not be top steamed buns (here called gua bao) that tropical fruit, thousands of spice packets
這類備受推崇的指南來掌握完
環邊蚵仔煎」。我能好幾小時
說到亞洲美食，地瓜可
of mind when you think of Asian cuisine. have become popular across the United and jars, a variety of dried seafood that
But from their birthplace in the Americas, States. Though everyone had warned made my head spin. That was where I
能不是您會第一個想到的食
美快炒的技巧。我的太太蒂恩
目不轉睛地看著身穿紅色圍裙
the tubers boarded huge galleons as early me away, I fell in love with — or maybe found the famous tree-grown mountain
(Deann) 1970 年代在台灣教英
材。然而，這種塊莖植物從美
的廚師在圓形煎盤上熟練操
as the mid-16th century, traveled across it’s more accurate to say I had a momen- pepper (maqaw) that seasons many
the Pacific to Manila, and then slowly wan- tary crush on — stinky tofu. I contend Taiwanese dishes. And that was where I
洲的發源地出發，早在 16 世
語時，把《Chinese Cuisine》及
作，簡直就是一場美食芭蕾。
dered from one Asian culture to another, that anyone who’s taken with punchy found the great soy sauce, in Jiang Ji Hua
紀中葉就登上大型帆船，橫
finding warm — if not celebrated — wel- blue cheese like Roquefort will like this Lung, a nationally renowned store owned
《Chinese Snacks》這兩本食譜
蚵仔鹹香鮮甜，麵糊 Q 彈，
comes nearly everywhere. That diffusion medium-firm tofu that’s been marinated by Rotarian Hsien-chiao Chiang. The
帶回我們家中。
渡太平洋抵達馬尼拉，然後慢
蛋香濃郁豐厚，青菜清爽提味
reached Taiwan, where the potatoes now in a complex fermented brine. store specializes in cured, dried pork —
attract long lines when cooked, mashed, ―― 難怪當地人願意排隊數小 think of it as pork jerky — that’s gently
慢遊走於一個又一個亞洲文
但我不知道的是，這些
mixed with other tuberous starches, and seasoned with soy and sugar. I found the
化之間，所到之處都得到熱
食譜中可能要用到的醬油，其
時，只為品嚐這分人間美味。
transformed into those shiny little balls. DIHUA STREET compressed heart shapes formed from
Once I extricated myself from the For the sheer pleasure of it, I’ve practiced chopped jerky and the pork “paper” —
情 ―― 即使不算隆重 ―― 的 接下來的一個小時簡直 味道與其他他醬油不同，且更
enthusiastic crowd, I discovered what I cooking Asian food all of my adult life, so thin it crunched like a sweet, salty
勝一籌。此地的手工醬油是用
歡迎。這股傳播熱潮也抵達台
can only describe as pure delight. Those relying on well-respected guides like potato chip — to be wondrous.
是眼花撩亂：有包著鹹蛋黃及
灣，如今，當地人將地瓜煮 肉鬆的炸芋丸、沾滿花生粉及 黑豆而非一般常見的黃豆製
熟、搗成泥，與其他澱粉混 芝麻的完美麻糬，以及在美國 成，需要數月發酵。第一次品
Above, from left: At Taipei’s markets, you’ll find crab, fried taro balls with preserved egg yolk and pork floss, and oyster omelets; a
Japanese tea ceremony; chef Rick Bayless (in blue) tours a tea plantation. Right: Bayless inspects lobsters at a seafood restaurant.
38 ROTARY NOVEMBER 2025
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10 臺灣扶輪 2025.11