Page 14 - 2025年11月號

ɪd̸ৎj঩ึภৣ΢ό΢ᅵٙᓃːiԎл౶ʿ˄˄໛ࢸԮ͜ˬЂᙢiɓઞᘒࢥᔮߕऎᒻf
The fl avors hovered in my head like We drank a remarkable cold sparkling Michelin-recognized spot that draws
the fading notes of an unrivaled string oolong tea as we tucked into the steam- more than 5,000 people on some days.
出連續、急促的嗚咽聲，狂甩
顯然，在這個講求供需
不如參觀種植莓果或桃子的地
quartet. It was unlike any tea I’d tasted. ing bowls of goodness. For me, all that The line of people patiently waiting to
的市場中，台灣的高麗菜似乎 deliciousness was almost eclipsed by the get into Fuhang stretched for more than
方。因為這裡沒有新鮮的果實
尾巴到讓我擔心牠會受傷。這
noodles themselves. These weren’t like the a city block. “People start lining up at 5
供過於求，這促使一位當地農
可供品嚐。如同咖啡及香草一
正是他在訓練用來尋找松露
Q TEXTURE typical wheat-fl our noodles I was expect- a.m. for their 5:30 open,” Henry laughed.
We hadn’t been more than three hours ing. Instead, they had a slight chewiness With a swift grin, he said, “Follow me.”
的狗。
民 ―― 原住民村長黃金榮與
樣，茶葉絕妙的風味是在發
o the plane when we found ourselves to them, a little resilience, a little bounce. Like a school of salmon swimming
扶輪合作，想出了一個跳脫框
再往前開幾分鐘，我們
酵、乾燥、或烘烤的過程中形
descending the stairs at the Regent I asked to speak to the chef. They were upstream, we worked our way through
Taipei hotel into the open dining room made partially with yam fl our, he said. the crowd. We followed Henry toward
成的。
來到了「亞爸的山」。這座簡
架的點子。近 10 年前，黃金
of the Azie restaurant, where we met our That’s when I began to understand a kitchen on one end of what appeared
回到山下的民宿，我們
榮在他的農場裡種植了一片青
hosts, Rotarians Jimmy Chih-Ming Lai what the Taiwanese call “Q texture.” to be a food court. A young guy with a
樸的兩層樓建築坐落在道路的
and Wenny Lin. We were there to eat beef People on this island are obsessed bac’ward baseball cap gave Henry a joy-
一個彎道處，守望著山坡上成
看到主人迅速用水沖一下一個
剛櫟，過去幾年來，他一直在
noodle soup, one of Taiwan’s standout with texture, and one of their favorites ful hug, then waved us into the kitchen.
dishes. While beef noodle soup sounds is that brilliant spot between resilient Turns out Henry’s friend is the grandson
大杯子，杯中裝滿了來自我們
樹下的土壤中接種孢子，希望
排緊密、碧玉色的茶樹叢，連
commonplace, the Taiwanese version is and soft, chewy and tender, stic’y and of the people who started Fuhang.
綿向上延伸到山頂。我們擠進
能長出松露 ―― 一種價值遠
剛才看到的茶園所種出來的輕
unique, even thrilling. Brought by immi- gummy. I encountered it, too, in the We watched as cooks rolled out thick,
grants to the island in the middle of the night market’s spectacular oyster om- rectangular breads and passed them to
遠超過產量過剩之高麗菜的農
一輛四輪驅動的小卡車後座，
度發酵高山烏龍茶的球狀茶
20th century during the Chinese Civil elet and celebrated mochis. others to slap on the sidewalls of barrel
葉。然後他注滿開水，浸泡
War, it is considered emblematic of the 然後沿著崎嶇不平的道路顛簸 ovens, cooking them to a rich golden
產品。
island’s cooking. There’s a simpler, clear brown. Other cooks coated thinner rect-
了一分鐘左右，將茶湯濾入瓷
而上，到達山頂。
黃金榮穿著厚重的皮靴，
version that is rich with beef bone broth, TAIWANESE BREAKFAST angles with sesame. Further on, cooks
and there’s a thicker, richer version that’s When my wife lived in Taichung in the deeply creased strips of yet another
帶著堅定的神情下了車。他的
除了美麗的景色及將手
杯中供我們品嚐。茶湯濃郁複
seasoned with spicy Sichuan fermented 1970s, she fell in love with Taiwanese dough to fry into youtiao. The rhythm
雜、清新宜人，帶有淡淡的花
穿過細小、緊密相連的茶葉
兩隻扭動不安的狗像出膛的u
fava bean paste (doubanjiang) and, if yo breakfast. She has told me about sitting was captivating, the production astound-
wish, Sichuan peppercorns. in roadside stands, dipping the crullers ing. The scene felt almost operatic.
子彈一樣衝進樹林。其中一隻 （該茶樹屬於山茶科）的興奮 香，以及一絲苦澀與一絲甘
called youtiao into warm doujiang (soy The young man handed Henry a bag
感之外，參觀茶園的樂趣，
甜。主人在一個帶孔的不鏽鋼
狗直接跑到一棵樹的底部，發 milk) and relishing every minute of it. and we made our way back to the car. We
So, when Henry Hsieh, an energetic couldn’t cut the hour-long line, but we
盤上操作，以接住濺出的水
young Rotarian with a food-centric could get takeout. I hadn’t imagined that
Instagram account, picked us up one my fi rst taste of the legendary Fuhang
花，他動作俐落但隨意，一輪
Ҟ஺᎛භٙ፯኿ restaurant would be in the back seat of
morning for a visit to the Binjian Market,
又一輪重新沖泡及過濾出茶
I was secretly hoping that breakfast a sleek, late-model black sedan, but I
would be the fi rst stop. Not only was he couldn’t wait to dip my crunchy-fresh
■ ■ 湯，讓我們品嚐風味如何演
planning breakfast, he was planning it youtiao into warm soy milk — some of
變。（我最喜歡的是第二泡。）
7-11 at the legendary Fuhang Soy Milk, the the best, nuttiest I’ve tasted.
南門市場
ʱֳ଺ε ʕ͍ਜ 那茶的滋味縈繞在我的
આ̙˸༊༊Չεᅵʷٙଷༀ ᅽ৷ 4 ᄴdၳණ൴ཀ 200 ࡈ 腦海，就像一首無與倫比的弦
˴᎛fவԬ᎛ᓃ̙˸Դֳ͜ ᛅЗfՉʕܼ̍ɓࡈᄿաᛇ 樂四重奏正在逐漸消逝的音
ʫ౤Զٙฆتᘟ̋ᆠdԨί ڎٙߕ࠮ਜdԶᏐ΢ό̨ό 符。這與我過去品嚐過的任何
ֳʫٙ͜᎛ਜԮ͜f तЍʃΦf
茶品都截然不同。
12 臺灣扶輪 2025.11