Page 13 - 2025年11月號

TEA AND TRUFFLES Jinrong got out of his car wearing
Driving southeast from Taipei, we wound heavy leather boots and a resolute look.
our way through mountain peaks and His two squirmy dogs shot into the
past farmhouses with adjoining rice pad- trees like they’d been exploded from
dies before descending into Yilan County. a gun. One dog went straight to the
As far as my eyes could see, the earth base of a tree and, with a constant, fast
Ԏл౶˴ᄼ€ഹᔝВ٫
was fi lled with cabbages. Straight row whimper, wa”ged his tail so forcefully
˚ό঩༸
ਞᝈ঩෤
after straight row, fi eld after fi eld, creat- that I thought he might hurt himself.
ing a haphazard patchwork of brassicas. These were the dogs he was training to
hunt the tru‘ es.
Clearly, in a world of supply and
嚐台灣醬油的感受，就像您過 上。那裡堆滿了熱帶水果、數 瑞克‧貝利斯݊੻ᆤ᎛ᝂd̍
TEA AND TRUFFLES
small, densely packed leaves of the camel-
A few more minutes down the valley,
demand, Taiwan appeared to have Jinrong got out of his car wearing ܼٺ̋ࡩࣦٙ̿तזደट᎛ᝂ
Driving southeast from Taipei, we wound 千袋香料包及罐子，以及種類
去習慣喝 4 年金賓 (Jim Beam)
TEA AND TRUFFLES heavy leather boots and a resolute look.
Jinrong got out of his car wearing
enough cabbages, which led one local
we came to Yaba’s Mountain guest- (Frontera Grill)ʿϷՉ؍݋ॴ᎛
our way through mountain peaks and
Driving southeast from Taipei, we wound heavy leather boots and a resolute look. lia plants — tea is in the camellia family
His two squirmy dogs shot into the
繁多、令我眼花撩亂的乾製水
波本威士忌，卻突然品嚐到
farmer, Jinrong Huang, an Indigenous
house. Nestled in a bend of the road, the ت ᖯ फ ت (Topolobampo)
past farmhouses with adjoining rice pad- His two squirmy dogs shot into the
our way through mountain peaks and trees like they’d been exploded from ᝂ ϖ — visiting a tea plantation is less excit-
village chief, to work with Rotary on an
23 年陳釀的 Pappy Van Winkle
simple two-story structure kept watch
ing than visiting a place that grows, say,
dies before descending into Yilan County. 產。我在那裡發現了著名的樹
a gun. One dog went straight to the
past farmhouses with adjoining rice pad- trees like they’d been exploded from ٙٝΤ˴ᄼʿΥྫɛf˼݊ʮ
As far as my eyes could see, the earth
base of a tree and, with a constant, fast
over the dozens of long, tightly packed
outside-the-box idea. At Jinrong’s farm,
berries or peaches. There’s nothing fresh
dies before descending into Yilan County. a gun. One dog went straight to the ΍ཥൖ̨Ўߕᆤ౤Τືͦኈ
生山胡椒（馬告），這種香料
威士忌一樣。它醇厚圓潤、層
was fi lled with cabbages. Straight row
whimper, wa”ged his tail so forcefully
As far as my eyes could see, the earth base of a tree and, with a constant, fast Гࡩjɓϣɓ༸ൄ‘(Mexico:
nearly a decade before, he had planted a
rows of jade-color tea bushes that rose
to taste. As with co– ee and vanilla, tea’s
that I thought he might hurt himself.
after straight row, fi eld after fi eld, creat-
為許多台灣菜餚增添風味。同
次複雜，令人心滿意足。
was fi lled with cabbages. Straight row whimper, wa”ged his tail so forcefully brilliant fl avors develop during the fer-
high up the mountain. We piled into the
grove of oak trees, and, for the last few
ing a haphazard patchwork of brassicas.
These were the dogs he was training to
after straight row, fi eld after fi eld, creat- that I thought he might hurt himself. One Plate at a Time)ٙ˴ܵɛe
時，我在「江記華隆」這家全
menting, drying, and/or roasting process.
years he’s been inoculating the earth be-
back of a small four-wheel drive truck
最出乎意料的是，我在
Clearly, in a world of supply and
hunt the tru‘ es.
ing a haphazard patchwork of brassicas. These were the dogs he was training to ᐏᆤЪ࢕eฉഛ࢕ʿ YouTube
neath them with spores he hoped would
Back down at the guesthouse, we
and then bumped our way up the rutted
A few more minutes down the valley,
demand, Taiwan appeared to have
國知名的商店找到了那極品醬
迪化街一家肉製品店裡，發現 hunt the tru‘ es. small, densely packed leaves of the camel-
Clearly, in a world of supply and
௴Ъ٫f
enough cabbages, which led one local
we came to Yaba’s Mountain guest-
road to the top.
grow into tru‘ es — an agricultural
watched our host give a quick rinse to
small, densely packed leaves of the camel-
A few more minutes down the valley,
demand, Taiwan appeared to have 油，店主是扶輪社員江顯皎。 lia plants — tea is in the camellia family
了我最愛的手工醬油。我喜歡
farmer, Jinrong Huang, an Indigenous
— visiting a tea plantation is less excit-
house. Nestled in a bend of the road, the
Other than the beautiful vistas and the
a big cup he’d fi lled with the balled-up
product with vastly more value than the
enough cabbages, which led one local we came to Yaba’s Mountain guest- ing than visiting a place that grows, say,
lia plants — tea is in the camellia family
village chief, to work with Rotary on an
simple two-story structure kept watch
漫步在這條街上生氣蓬勃的商
thrill of running your han
dry leaves of lightly fermented, high-
這家店主打用醬油及糖溫和調ds through the
overplanted cabbages.
— visiting a tea plantation is less excit-
farmer, Jinrong Huang, an Indigenous house. Nestled in a bend of the road, the berries or peaches. There’s nothing fresh
over the dozens of long, tightly packed
outside-the-box idea. At Jinrong’s farm,
mountain oolong tea from the fi elds we’d
ing than visiting a place that grows, say,
nearly a decade before, he had planted a simple two-story structure kept watch
village chief, to work with Rotary on an 味的醃製肉乾 ―― 您可以將 其視為美國的 pork jerky（豬
to taste. As with co– ee and vanilla, tea’s
店之間，貨品滿溢到人行道
rows of jade-color tea bushes that rose
outside-the-box idea. At Jinrong’s farm, over the dozens of long, tightly packed brilliant fl avors develop during the fer-
just seen. Then he fi lled the cup, let it
berries or peaches. There’s nothing fresh
grove of oak trees, and, for the last few
high up the mountain. We piled into the
years he’s been inoculating the earth be- rows of jade-color tea bushes that rose
menting, drying, and/or roasting process. ’s
nearly a decade before, he had planted a back of a small four-wheel drive truck 肉乾）。我發現那些用切碎肉
to taste. As with co– ee and vanilla, tea
steep a minute or so, and strained the liq-
grove of oak trees, and, for the last few and then bumped our way up the rutted 乾壓製成的心形肉乾，以及薄
neath them with spores he hoped would high up the mountain. We piled into the
brilliant fl avors develop during the fer-
Back down at the guesthouse, we
uid o– into porcelain cups for us to taste.
Ԏл౶Ꮸൖɓ࢕
grow into tru‘ es — an agricultural
road to the top.
years he’s been inoculating the earth be- back of a small four-wheel drive truck watched our host give a quick rinse to
menting, drying, and/or roasting process.
It was richly complex, fresh, and gently
ऎᒻ᎛ᝂٙᎲሃ
a big cup he’d fi lled with the balled-up
neath them with spores he hoped would Other than the beautiful vistas and the 如紙片、酥脆得像甜鹹洋芋片
Back down at the guesthouse, we
product with vastly more value than the and then bumped our way up the rutted
fl oral with a hint of bitter, a hint of sweet.
overplanted cabbages.
thrill of running your hands through the
watched our host give a quick rinse to
grow into tru‘ es — an agricultural road to the top. dry leaves of lightly fermented, high-
的豬肉紙，都美味至極。
Working over a perfor
a big cup he’d fi lled with the balled-up
product with vastly more value than the Other than the beautiful vistas and the mountain oolong tea from the fi elds we’d ated stainless steel
box to catch splashes, our host was fast
dry leaves of lightly fermented, high-
overplanted cabbages. thrill of running your hands through the just seen. Then he fi lled the cup, let it
steep a minute or so, and strained the liq-
茶與松露 and slapdash, re-steeping and straining
mountain oolong tea from the fi elds we’d
uid o– into porcelain cups for us to taste.
the leaves, round after round, for us to
just seen. Then he fi lled the cup, let it
我們驅車往台北東南方走，蜿
It was richly complex, fresh, and gently
steep a minute or so, and strained the liq-
taste how the fl avor evolved. (My favorite
fl oral with a hint of bitter, a hint of sweet.
uid o– into porcelain cups for us to taste.
蜒穿過一座座山峰，經過一棟
was the second steeping.)
Working over a perforated stainless steel
It was richly complex, fresh, and gently
box to catch splashes, our host was fast
棟農舍及相連的稻田，最後下
fl oral with a hint of bitter, a hint of sweet.
and slapdash, re-steeping and straining
Working over a perforated stainless steel
坡進入宜蘭縣。放眼望去，大
the leaves, round after round, for us to
box to catch splashes, our host was fast
taste how the fl avor evolved. (My favorite
KITCHEN COMRADES cultural identity. We talked childhood 地盡是高麗菜。一排又一排整
and slapdash, re-steepin
was the second steeping.) g and straining
Rick Bayless talks about his
Henry had arranged for me to cook with and how our tastes are crafted by family 齊的高麗菜田，構成了一幅隨
the leaves, round after round, for us to
community projects and culinary
a couple of other chefs at his restaurant and community, about how those tastes 意拼湊的甘藍科植物拼圖。
taste how the fl avor evolved. (My favorite
diplomacy in this 2023 episode
of the Rotary Voices podcast:
Wildwood, a sleek, comfortable spot become so deeply rooted that they feel was the second steeping.)
Rick Bayless talks about his
on.rotary.org/bayless-podcast.
that specializes in wood-grilled fish and like the very fabric of our beings. community projects and culinary
steaks. Preparing food alongside chefs diplomacy in this 2023 episode
in another country is an opportunity of the Rotary Voices podcast:
Ԏл౶ί 2023 ϋ Rotary Voices
Rick Bayless talks about his
NOVEMBER 2025 ROTARY 39
on.rotary.org/bayless-podcast.
I jump at. Even when we don’t share a FOOD FROM THE HEART ٙɓණᅧ܄ʕdሔሞ˼ٟٙਜ؂
community projects and culinary
language, the communication through Of all the brilliant food we’d enjoyed, the and, with the help of voluntee
diplomacy in this 2023 episode rs, get
ਕࠇ೥ʿ଒ප̮ʹjon.rotary.
food — the way we handle it, the way we meal we ate at a food kitchen established them delivered to those in need.
of the Rotary Voices podcast:
NOVEMBER 2025 ROTARY 39
on.rotary.org/bayless-podcast.
combine flavors, the way we work with by Rotarians in Taipei was one of the org/bayless-podcastf
We climbed the stairs to the second
fire — is fluent and full. most memorable. The enterprise started story meeting and teaching facility and
Jarry Liu, Wildwood’s chef de cuisine, out in 2016 as a service project to reduce found spots around the table. When I
NOVEMBER 2025 ROTARY 39
11
臺灣扶輪 2025.11
built a wood fire for us to cook on. Rotar- food waste by salvaging leftover produce opened the paperboard box that was
ian Jay Liu had driven up from Taichung and turning it into meals for low-income set in front of me, the careful beauty
to be my other comrade in the kitchen families, older adults living alone, and the cooks had created greeted me
and attend the Rotary meeting happen- others. Through a Rotary Foundation like a broad smile. The flavors were
ing at the restaurant later that night. global grant, the members transformed so simple, so homey, so perfect. They
I thought chef Jarry was going to an unused city building into a gleaming nourished and filled me with happiness
grill some fish to show off a specialty stainless steel kitchen where they teach — a happiness particular to all food
at Wildwood, but he couldn’t stay away unemployed people to make box lunches, made with love.
from the chicken cockscombs I’d found
at the Binjian Market. Before I knew it,
he’d started braising the fleshy crests
from the birds’ heads, and then he gave
them a brief tour on the grill and a lively
adornment with pickled red onions and
cilantro. They were spectacular.
By the time I started grilling my
chicken thighs to flavor with a blend of
herbs, roasted garlic, green chile, and
lime, chef Jay was deep into another
poultry dish, the famous Taiwanese
three-cup chicken. Its preparation in-
volves braising the chicken with sesame
oil, rice wine, and soy sauce. Then you
sweeten the reduced cooking liquid to
a shiny glaze and garnish the dish with
Thai basil and red chiles.
We talked fire and its infinite possi-
bilities. We talked ingredient proportions
and history and the role of food in
NOVEMBER 2025 ROTARY 41