Page 15 - 2025年11月號

ɪd̸ৎjႡЪඍঌٙϘ᎛ذૢiԎл౶eᑽ֚ጫʿ˼͎ٙፋ Catherine ϡਫ਼ ɓৎ௃̹ఙiԎл౶މ˼ٙतሜ
ᕒၺਂ௰ܝࡌུf cultural identity. We talked childhood
KITCHEN COMRADES
Henry had arranged for me to cook with and how our tastes are crafted by family
與主廚談談。他說，麵條的一
「Q 彈」口感 and community, about how those tastes 的店家在有些日子甚至能吸引
a couple of other chefs at his restaurant
Wildwood, a sleek, comfortable spot
部分原料是山藥粉。
我們下飛機還不到 3 個小時， become so deeply rooted that they feel 5,000 多位顧客。
that specializes in wood-grilled fish and like the very fabric of our beings.
便來到台北晶華酒店的中庭咖 那一刻，我開始理解台 等著進入阜杭豆漿的人
steaks. Preparing food alongside chefs
in another country is an opportunity
灣人所稱的「Q 彈」口感。這
啡廳 (azie)，走下樓梯進入開 FOOD FROM THE HEART 龍綿延超過一個街區。Henry
I jump at. Even when we don’t share a
大笑著說：「人們早上 5 時
座島嶼上的人們對食物的質地
language, the communication through
放式的用餐區，與我們的東道 Of all the brilliant food we’d enjoyed, the and, with the help of volunteers, get
food — the way we handle it, the way we meal we ate at a food kitchen established them delivered to those in need.
有著異常執著的熱愛，而他們
主扶輪社員賴志明及林汶玲會 by Rotarians in Taipei was one of the 就開始排隊，等著 5 時半開
combine flavors, the way we work with
We climbed the stairs to the second
最喜歡的，正是介於有韌性及
門。」，然後他帶著一個俐落
fire — is fluent and full.
合。我們此行是來品嚐台灣的 most memorable. The enterprise started story meeting and teaching facility and
Jarry Liu, Wildwood’s chef de cuisine, out in 2016 as a service project to reduce found spots around the table. When I
的笑容說：「跟我來。」
柔軟、有嚼勁及滑嫩、黏稠及
built a wood fire for us to cook on. Ro
特色招牌菜 ―― 牛肉麵。雖tar- food waste by salvaging leftover produce opened the paperboard box that was
ian Jay Liu had driven up from Taichung
彈牙之間的完美臨界點。我在
我們像逆流而上的鮭
然牛肉麵聽起來平凡無奇，但 and turning it into meals for low-income set in front of me, the careful beauty
families, older adults living alone, and
to be my other comrade in the kitchen
the cooks had created greeted me
夜市裡那精彩絕倫的蚵仔煎及
魚般，穿過人群。我們跟著
台灣的版本卻獨樹一幟，甚至 others. Through a Rotary Foundation like a broad smile. The flavors were
and attend the Rotary meeting happen-
ing at the restaurant later that night. global grant, the members transformed so simple, so homey, so perfect. They
備受讚譽的麻糬之中，也感受
Henry 走向一個看似美食廣
令人叫絕。這道菜是 20 世紀 an unused city building into a gleaming nourished and filled me with happiness
I thought chef Jarry was going to
到了這種「Q 彈」。
場一端的廚房。一個倒戴著
grill some fish to show off a specialty
中葉，中國內戰期間由移民帶 stainless steel kitchen where they teach — a happiness particular to all food
at Wildwood, but he couldn’t stay away unemployed people to make box lunches, made with love.
到台灣，被視為島上的代表性 棒球帽的年輕人開心擁抱了
from the chicken cockscombs I’d found
at the Binjian Market. Before I knew it,
美食。它有兩種版本：一種 台式早餐 Henry，然後揮手讓我們進到
he’d started braising the fleshy crests
是簡單的清燉版本，湯頭帶有 我太太 1970 年代住在台中 廚房裡。原來 Henry 的朋友就
from the birds’ heads, and then he gave
them a brief tour on the grill and a lively 時，便愛上了台式早餐。她告
濃郁的牛骨精華；另一種是更 是阜杭豆漿創辦人的孫子。
adornment with pickled red onions and
cilantro. They were spectacular.
濃郁、醇厚的紅燒版本，用辛 訴我，她常坐在路邊攤，將油 我們看著廚師擀出厚實
By the time I started grilling my 條浸入溫熱的豆漿中，每個時
辣的四川豆瓣醬調味，如果喜 的長方形麵餅，遞給其他人，
chicken thighs to flavor with a blend of
herbs, roasted garlic, green chile, and
歡，還可以加入四川花椒。 刻都是享受。 將其貼在桶狀烤爐的側壁上，
lime, chef Jay was deep into another 因此，當充滿活力、經
當我們大口享用熱騰騰
poultry dish, the famous Taiwanese 烤至金黃酥脆。其他廚師則在
three-cup chicken. Its preparation in-
的美味牛肉麵時，一邊喝著一 營一個美食 IG 帳號的年輕扶 較薄的長方形麵餅上塗上芝
volves braising the chicken with sesame
種非凡的冰鎮氣泡烏龍茶。對 輪社員 Henry 謝宗翰在一天早 麻。再往裡走，廚師們正在將
oil, rice wine, and soy sauce. Then you
sweeten the reduced cooking liquid to 上開車載我們去濱江市場時，
我來說，所有的美味幾乎都被 長條形麵團壓出摺痕，準備油
a shiny glaze and garnish the dish with
Thai basil and red chiles.
麵條本身搶盡了風頭。這些麵 我偷偷希望早餐會是我們的第 炸成油條。那節奏令人著迷，
We talked fire and its infinite possi- 一站。他不僅安排了早餐，
條與我預期的典型小麥麵條不 產量驚人。整個場景呈現戲劇
bilities. We talked ingredient proportions
and history and the role of food in
同，它們帶有一點嚼勁，一點 而且還是在傳奇的「阜杭豆 化的流暢洗鍊。
韌性，以及一點彈性。我要求 漿」 ―― 這間獲得米其林認可 這位年輕人遞給 Henry 一
NOVEMBER 2025 ROTARY 41
臺灣扶輪 2025.11 13